Richard's jaunt

Friday, November 05, 2004

Northern Mexico (updated 15 Nov)

Bit of an epic journey from Baja and used about every means of transport.

Local bus at 14:00 to ferry terminal and caught the ferry for an easy crossing to the mainland landing at 22:30.
Caught another local bus (1960s, had to stand, bag on roof) from ferry terminal to bus station. Then got ripped off by a taxi driver to a hotel at midnight.

Got up four hours later to get another taxi, as this town was a bit rough, as I usualy use buses. Caught a train at 06:00. This wended its way through rolling green and leafy scenery which could have been England (honest).

The journey was really pretty, waterfalls, mountain passes, numerous tunnels and bridges. Later I met an English railway engineer who told me the bridges were dead dodgy.

It is supposed to be one the worlds top railway journeys. It was supposed to take six hours but instead took thirteen, because it rained!. It was so slow you could watch individual trees pass by. Top train though, restaurant car had booths not seats, the cocktail carriage had a wooden bar that swept in a 4m curve, very Orient Express. We had our own machine gunner as well!

Stayed at Creel for a while did some walking, but it froze at night due to the altitude, so I did not stay long. I picked some berries for a girl to turn into jewelry, which was nice.

Lots of native indians. The women wear some amazing traditional clothing, while the guys are all in Western gear and ride huge beat up pickups. Helped a local guy to move house. Well I asume he was moving house, could be robbing it for all I know.

Up to Chihauhua (bit of a dog, he he) and then to Zacatecas. This is one of my favourite towns ever. Full of winding streets, very little sign of the 20th century, all the buildings are as when Pancho Villa was ripping up the town. Terracota colours, shutters at the windows, a little rounded arch for the door. The only problem is that without shop fronts or signs it is really difficult to find a particular store. You have to peer into each door way, an underwear shop could be next to engineers workshop, next to saddlemakers, or iron mongers (who sell horse shoes!). The bars have swing doors, just like the films, great!

The bedrooms in Mexico use glow in the dark light switches, which I though was a brillient idea.

Currently in Guanajuato, which apart from being very pretty is a big student town and has the usual student facilities. Loads of internet cafes, 10peso an hour and loads of booze. By chance I have bumped into a fellow Scot, so we have had a few drinks! One offer is for 45peso you can get 5 beers or 1lt of Barcadi or 1lt of Taquilla! The exchange rate is 21peso to the quid, so it works out very cheap. I found loads of Mexican beers that dont make it out of Mexico. I dont know whether its the altitude (everywheres over 2000m) or the food but my stomach is far from happy. I think I have been over doing the chilis. They have salsa on their breakfast beans, or it could be the cacti, which I found out today is a laxative (just what I need).

Well off to do some more beer research. Planning to hit the biggest city in world in the next few days.

Just as an aside if you are wondering about my punctuation (though I doubt it) it is because of the Spanish keyboards. No two are the same and to make life more difficult the keys dont match the symbols.

Oh I left town fairly promptly as my Scottish budy after a five am finish, which by the way the club was still full on when we left and there were people in church singing on the way home. Anyway he was keen to be more than a buddy. Im all for new experiences but I think I ll take a rain check on that one.

Went to Morelia, which was a fine town. The only white face in town, but the people were so friendly and keen to catch where I was from. Also went to Patzcuaro, which is a really pretty mountain village next to a huge lake. Took out a boat and went to one of the islands. Lots of water lilies and herons. Sunset was beutiful over the lake, but the mosiĀ“s bit me to death, such is life.

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